Astrid Y Gaston, Lima

You would have thought that such a lunch as we had at El Mercado would have provided enough food excitement for one day. But our friends in Peru were not going to allow one mealtime space to go unfilled with something special. After all, we only had two full days in Lima, and forgetting about any sights, galleries, museums - that's six opportunities for a food-obsessed tourist. We had been hearing stories of Gaston Acurio - probably the biggest name in Peruvian cuisine and responsible for placing the country firmly on the food map - so were amazed to find ourselves staring at his name on a plaque outside tonight's surprise restaurant. This was Acurio's first restaurant, which he opened with his wife Astrid, who was a pastry chef at the Cordon Bleu.

We entered the restaurant through its grand door of old-style Miraflores into a cozy bar area where we waited for our table. First things first, Pisco sours all round. As the days went on, we became hopelessly addicted to this Peruvian national drink in its simplicity and deliciousness. Pisco (a grape-based spirit) is mixed with sugar syrup and plenty of lime juice, then whizzed up with egg white which forms the frothy top layer, speckled with a few droplets of Angostura bitters. The cocktail menu here was very exciting, with many variations on the classic sour, so we had to try a few such as Tumbo sour.

Unfortunately my camera battery died during cocktail hour so I had to resort to phone pictures for the rest of the meal (rookie error I know). But I did quite well despite the low lighting - anyway it is not so much a matter of whether the food looks good but the number of pictures indicating just how much food we ate.

And so we were seated at our table, nestled in the corner of a room lined with wine bottles, about to be presented with some of the most impressive creations I have ever eaten. First, the bread. I don't normally like to eat much bread when dining out in case it fills me up but this array was completely appealing - six different types, ranging from one made with chocolate to a brioche studded with more of that Peruvian mint. It was becoming evident that Astrid y Gaston was not the kind of place to simply have a starter, main and dessert and be done with it.

Alongside the bread came a plate of 'house starters': a shot glass of Oyuco syrup and Huacatay foam, a tiny seafood pastry, and Peruvian corn tempura. The corn I was particularly fascinated by - to me it really felt like eating an ancient grain. With a satisfying earthy flavour, it did not taste like ordinary sweet yellow corn, and neither looked like it with its huge, long white kernels.

Lines of this corn can be seen more clearly, placed on top of a fish ceviche, one of the starters we actually ordered. This looked beautiful, with rounds of spring onion and chilli floating in the familiar 'tiger's milk'. It tasted amazing and I had stop myself eating more than a spoonful to allow room for the other dishes - octopus, grilled and charcoaly and a scallop with sweet potato and brown butter, leeks and chilli. The varying ways of eating a single scallop were proving to be incredibly exciting.

By this point I was actually starting to feel quite ill from having eaten so much food that day, and this was tragic given the amount of food that was left to come. Mum and I had decided to go halves on suckling goat with pureed pumpkin, and Mero fish - a local speciality. Both were delicious, but I regret I could merely sample a few mouthfuls of each before entering into a state of anxiety that I might have to absent myself from the table to go and lie down somewhere.

Fortunately, my appetite miraculously returned in time for dessert, when the most adorable jewellery-box arrived with drawers of petit-fours: a pea green coca biscuit dulche de leche sandwich was my favourite, but everything was so beautifully crafted (this must be Astrid's influence): mini macaroons, triffles, and pineapple-flavoured sugared jelly cubes.

The desserts we'd actually ordered (!) were baked apple with caramel, cardamom and ginger ice cream (delicous as it sounds), and a ball of Lucuma ice cream inside a chocolate ball, which was made at the table by pouring over molten chocolate. The lucuma flavour (quite maple-y as in the desserts at Mercado) made for really interesting ice cream, and went very well with chocolate, in a way that pear and almond does.

Even with being far too full most of the way through, almost nauseous at one point, I can honestly say this could rank as one of the best meals I've ever had. Nothing was boring - a good proportion were unlike anything I've ever had. What a great showcase for a national cuisine. Obviously Astrid y Gaston is an expensive restaurant, and I'm not suggesting that it is representative of what people eat on a day to day basis, but it appears that Gaston Acurio has a healthy interest in truly local food, having made television programmes scouring the country for its best cevicheria, and having made a name for himself internationally promoting Peruvian food. We were so lucky to have been taken to this fantastic restaurant - it only increased my appetite (NOT literally - I couldn't eat breakfast the next morning) for knowledge about Peruvian food and its traditions.

El Mercado real

El Mercado, Lima, Peru

We had arrived in Lima the previous night, and were met by our friends who immediately whisked us away from our hotel for to begin the race to fill our short time in the city with as much food as possible. High standards had been set by our first Pisco sours, some barbequed seafood and beautiful quails egg toasts at la Gloria, a late-night bar in Miraflores. The first full day started with a walk around the neighbourhood, which ended at the newly opened El Mercado where we were to dine - amongst Lima's trendiest, it seemed.

El Mercado simply means 'the market', and was supposed to be a laid back, pared down offering from one of Lima's most prestigious chefs, Rafael Osterling. It was nicely informal

- the whole restaurant was separated from the street by only one wall, so dining was almost open air. We were presented with some very real-looking potato chips and different dips: one with aji amarillo (yellow pepper) and 'Huacatay', a kind of local mint, and 'Huancaina', made with white cheese and more aji. Washed down with a Cusquena beer, these were a fantastic example of local ingredients being used so cleverly in simply things.

Jonathan and Carmen had taken charge of the ordering, which we were grateful of as more delicious plates arrived. Octopus with tomatoes and potatoes was char-grilled and absolutely fresh from the sea. We forked up mouthfuls straight from the hot plate until it was gone. The ceviche was perfectly limey - probably one of my favourite flavours. It was nice to try it with lightly fried calimari as opposed to raw fish; the crispy tentacles made for interesting texture, especially combined with chunks of sweet potato nestled in the pile. The juice left at the end is deliciously sour and fishy - it is called 'tiger's milk', and apparently it is common procedure to ask for it to be brought back to your table, mixed with pisco in a shot glass.

The selection of scallops was probably the most exciting dish we had - Bloody Mary flavour was fantastic, tasting as you would imagine it to with a teeny chunk of avocado. It was the first time I'd eaten raw scallops, and having wallowed in juices in their shells, they melted in the mouth.

Last on our list was Jalea, a typical dish of deep fried seafood, here served with a sort of creole sauce and lime. I loved how colourful and fresh everything was. The concept of the restaurant, as a local 'cevicheria' was so brilliant it's a shame this kind of Peruvian food has not been introduced to London, when so much other world cuisine has taken off. Although, as we lamented, to have such good fish this fresh would be double the price, so the idea of a casual 'market' restaurant would be lost.

Finally, for dessert, variations on the classic Suspiro - the 'Limenian sigh'. It is a sticky cream made from condensed milk, eggs and cinnamon, topped with a port-flavoured egg white foam. It was interesting that the three looked almost exactly the same, although were quite different - aside the 'classico' we had custard apple and lucuma, a tropical fruit that tastes like maple and sweet squash.

Once we had finished, Jonathan pointed out that although we were stuffed full, most people would have had this as a selection of starters, before moving on to mains. It would have been nice to have had the capacity to eat more, but for now we were satisfied with our first real taste of Peru lingering for the rest of the day - until the next meal.