Pizza pilgrimage

I finally went to Franco Manca,a pizza place in Brixton that has acquired general recognition of its brilliance through the kind of people who told me about it, who had heard - been - and passed it on. I just never went until now. But I knew it would be good, there was no question. So when I went it was not to 'see what all the fuss was about' it was because pizza was going to be the right kind of lunch for that day, and that was it.

On a very cold day I travelled down to Brixton for this lunch - a birthday lunch, but a very informal one with only three attendees. I arrived early, and walked around the covered market for a few minutes before deciding to settle and wait at the restaurant with my book - this gave longer time to think about my pizza choice. The place was packed (obviously) but there was a table in the outside area where I was able to wait. It being such a cold day, the waitress had her eye on me and as soon as opportunity came, almost forced me to move inside to warm up. Water was immediately brought out for me to somewhat quench my hunger in the 20 minute wait for my fellow diners.

Already the experience was what I knew it would be - I just couldn't wait for my pizza. The table we had was placed with a view of one of their ovens, herby chunks of potato being popped in and out making us all the more hungry. Sadly we were informed these were an ingredient for one of tomorrow's specials, 'something hearty for the cold'. Indeed. All pizzas come on a sourdough base, so even though it is doughier than I expected, doesn't seem overly bready. I chose number 2 out of 6 on their 'Autumn menu': Mozzarella, Buffalo ricotta and wild mushroom. At 50p extra I asked for tomato sauce - I just think if I came for a pizza I should probably have it, sorry Franco Manca to ruin your creation. After the time I had waiting, luckily my friends knew immediately what they would order (they had looked at the website online; it's always fun) and with one Gloucester-old spot ham and one chorizo we had a good range to try.

The pizza was unforgettably good, but I knew it would be. I didn't make the trip down to Brixton to test the place, and this certainly isn't a review but more a document stating how glad I am to have made the journey. I'll say this now before I mention that having ordered a bottle of their house red and drunk all but a couple of glasses, a member of staff's swift elbow came out of nowhere on passing with a pizza order and knocked the bottle on its side. Aside from a splash of red on denim, there really was no need for them to apologize by giving us another open bottle containing more than the amount we'd lost. Between two and a half people then (one left early) our lunchtime consumption was more than usual but in no way is the reason why I thought the pizzas were so excellent.

www.francomanca.co.uk

4, Market Row, Electric Lane, Brixton, London. SW9 8LD. Monday to Saturday 12-5